Having seen mentions of the book Edward's Menagerie by Kerry Lord (Toft Alpaca) in quite a few places I was lucky enough to find a copy in my local library.
The library is a great place to find craft books and it gives you the opportunity to try before you buy.
When I had first finished him I didn't add any features but later thought he looked a little sad, as you can see adding just nostrils and mouth made a real difference.
If you don't want to borrow it you can buy it online at Amazon in both Kindle and paperback format: http://amzn.to/2vmMU6N
There are over 40 animals to make and I chose to have a go at Blake the Orangutan
The patterns all use a basic body and leg design with extra rows added or taken away depending on which animal you choose to do. I did find this a bit of a chore having to keep turning from one page, with the basic body parts on, then back to the pattern page for the specific instructions for the animal. I can see why they have done it that way though as it saves printing costs of having to write out each animal individually.
The pattern for Blake was easy to follow, what they call the 'fur' stitch I call the loop stitch - we all have different names for our stitches! If you would like to learn how to do the stitch I have a tutorial here, it is really easy once you know how: https://youtu.be/L-8g1HRjt1s It was tricky remembering all the different parts to each round so I found it easier to write them down and tick them off as I went along. For instance you have to work a loop on every third or fourth stitch but at the same time increase or decrease in the round every few stitches so it is easy to forget where you are if you get distracted and miscount.
Here is an example of my row count - we all have different ways of working and this works for me, you might find it useful:
In the top example V = increase in that stitch 0 = make a loop stitch - you therefore sometimes work a loop stitch on the second of the increased stitches. In the bottom example: The rectangle around two stitches [] = work those two together. 0 = make a loop stitch - you therefore sometimes work a loop stitch at the same time as working two stitches together.
I used Boyes double knit, it is a good quality yet cheap yarn. I used less than 100g for the main body and just oddments for the rest.
Here is my version of Blake - I've called him Pongo because that is the Latin name for Orangutan! :) Again these are before and after features were added, I'm sure you will agree he looks a lot nicer with a smile :)
Would I make it again? - Yes probably but I might add more loops, it seems a bit sparse, especially on the legs/arms. Plus I think I would make the arms and legs longer.
I made this blanket using the Diagonal Box stitch, sometimes known as the Corner 2 Corner stitch (C2C)
It is really easy to do and you can make square or rectangle blankets and also, if you stop with one long edge and don't decrease (thus making a triangle) you can use it as a shawl/scarf.
If you would like to have a go I have made a tutorial for the stitch - not the whole blanket as all you need to know is how to start and finish then you can make your own blanket as big or as small as you wish.
I started mine in Cygnet Kiddies Couture, Blueberry stripe. It looks lovely. However it seemed to be getting quite expensive so to help keep down the cost I used a plain white in the middle, it gives it a nice two sided effect I think.
It grew really quickly and is snuggly and warm.
I added a border after this picture was taken, you can see how it looks with the border on the video.
Some time ago I made a video tutorial to make a crochet butterfly stitch to incorporate into your work. You can see the video here:
Someone asked on the video comments if I could make a chart for the pattern. I know that some people like charts, some like written instructions and some prefer a video to follow so they can crochet along. We are all different in the way we work and I was keen to help by making a chart for this subscriber.
However it is something I've never done before, I've used many charts myself but never made one. I tried drawing out the stitches on paper and it worked fairly well but was so time consuming and twice I made a mistake on the last row which meant I had to start drawing from scratch - it was so annoying and I was cross with myself! It looked something like this and was not great.
I decided to try a quick internet search to see if there were easier ways to make charts and one of the first things that came up was a site called Stitch Fiddle. https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/chart/new
Well this site changed my day! It took me a while to understand how it worked but it was easy to use and after a few trial and error attempts I managed to make a chart for the butterfly stitch.
It is a simple 'drag and drop' to make your chart. You have the choice of free style, crochet, knitting or cross stitch charts and can even upload a photo to make into a chart. You can save your designs by registering with them free of charge, all you need is an email address.
Lots of stitch symbols are there to use and they follow the common, universal, worldwide symbols that most people use.
It took me all afternoon to make my chart but I'm sure with practice that time would get much shorter as I learn how to do it. There are help features that you can access at any time as you create your chart.
This is the response I got regarding the chart request on YouTube:
"Tried the Butterfly Stitch with the Chart you made for it and it was a breeze. Charts are such a welcome part of crochet over written instructions - which are the one downside to crochet in my opinion. Thanks a million"
Well that has inspired me to try some more and I think Stitch Fiddle will become my new place to play :) It is still being developed and new features are being added regularly. It is free to use and you can create a chart without any cost but you can also pay for more advanced features if you wish.
You can save charts and share them with others, edit previously made charts, change the palette of stitches to your own choice adding more or less to those that are always available in your design view. You can also print and export your chart - I'm sure there is much more that I've yet to discover too.
Someone asked if I could do them a video tutorial for a Victorian Lattice Square because they could not follow written patterns.
I don't do videos of other people's patterns unless I am sure they won't mind and I managed to find a lovely Lattice Square pattern on Ravelry by Destany Wymore where she said she was happy for people to translate them if they wanted.
This is a crochet pattern for a pet bed. It is worked in the round in a continuous spiral and the edge is stuffed to give a soft, cosy bed.
I was inspired to make this pattern after getting a new cat and finding all the beds very expensive. I had lots of odd balls of yarn around so used them up to make it.
The pattern is free to use, however please do read the terms of use at the bottom of the pattern before you begin. If you have any problems or questions please do get in touch, I’ve found it hard to explain it all in writing so please do watch the video as it will really help explain what I mean: Video tutorial available here: https://youtu.be/dL4QAasj7lE or search www.youtube.com for Pookie Doodle Crafts
Instructions: .. to add to your Ravelry Projects, click here:
Yarn: Great for using any leftover oddments of yarns - aran and chunky work best but it might work with double knit too.
I used around 250-300g of aran and chunky. Stuffing: Any suitable stuffing such as toy stuffing, old cushion stuffing, cut up t.shirts work too.
Method:
Hook: 5.5 mm - larger hook will give a larger size, likewise a smaller hook will give a smaller size.
All terms used are UK crochet terms.
Ch - Chain
dc - Double Crochet (single crochet if you are in the US)
St - Stitch
Inc - work 2 double crochet stitches into one stitch below
FO - Fasten Off
To begin make a magic ring and work 6 dc into it ... if you prefer to work in chain rings, make 6 chains and join with a slip stitch then work 6 dc into it. (6 sts)
Place a marker in the first stitch so you know when you come back around to where you started. You will be working in continuous rounds, not joining the round.
1st round: 2 dc in each stitch (12sts)
2nd round: *1 dc in next stitch. inc in next stitch** - repeat from * to ** all the way around. (18sts)
3rd round: *1 dc in next 2 sts. inc in next stitch** - repeat from * to ** all the way around.
4th round: *1 dc in next 3 sts. inc in next stitch** - repeat from * to ** all the way around.
5th round: *1 dc in next 4 sts. inc in next stitch** - repeat from * to ** all the way around.
Continue is this way doing one more stitch between the increases until you have 25 stitches between the increases.
For a larger bed continue as above until you have the base the size you need.
Next round: Turn your work over and going back the other way work ONLY in the front loops (this round only) doing 1 dc in each stitch.
When you come back around to the marker do not join the round but continue working on in a spiral, doing 1 dc into each stitch, now working through both loops.
Continue on, round and round in a spiral until the side wall is twice the height you want the finished bed.
Now fasten off and then sew the top edge to the back loops that were left when you worked into the front loops. These will be located inside the bed near the fold.
Alternatively you can crochet them together as I do in the video.
As you sew or crochet them together stop from time to time and begin stuffing the side wall - if you sew it all first then you might have difficulty getting the stuffing all the way around.
It is worth watching the video as I am able to give far more detailed explanation on what I mean, than I can express in writing: https://youtu.be/dL4QAasj7lE
Enjoy! Terms of use: The pattern is free to use for personal use only. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, distribute physically or digitally or put the pattern on your own blog/website - instead please provide a link back to my blog or Ravelry download. Please do not claim the pattern as your own. Please credit Pookie Doodle Crafts www.pookiedoodlecrafts.co.uk as the designer and provide a link where possible.
The items you make: You may do what you like with the items you make from the pattern but please give me credit for the design where possible. I would also love to see photos of your finished items, please share them here on my blog www.pookiedoodlecrafts.co.uk or my Facebook page www.facebook.com/pookiedoodlecrafts or Ravelry www.ravelry.com/pookiedoodle If you sell them and make a reasonable profit please consider making a little donation to a charity from it - I would really appreciate that and thank you in advance :)
Have you ever worked some beautiful stripes in your crochet work only to find that when finished you have quite an ugly staggered look where you changed yarns?
Would you prefer them to look like this?
There are two methods to help prevent this happening, one is for when working in continuous spirals and one is for when working in joined rounds.
Basically you simply have to work half the last stitch on the round, leaving two loops on your hook, then using the next colour pull through both loops to finish the stitch.
Then work a slip stitch into the next stitch.
Then continue on as normal.
For joined rounds: (Again see the video tutorial for a better and full explanation).
Basically you drop the last loop from your hook, put the hook into the first chain of the previous round and through the dropped loop, then pull the new colour through them both, then work a chain and begin the next round in the new colour.
The video below gives a far better view of what I mean as it is easier to show you than try to write it down! The first part of the video is for continuous/spiral rounds and the second part for working in joined rounds.
I was asked if I could make a tutorial for a Remembrance Day Poppy, after pondering on it for a while I came up with an idea to make one by crocheting around a black button.
It is very easy to do although it can be a be tricky to hold the button, yarn and needle all at the same time but once you get used it there are so many things you can do with buttons and crochet.
There is a full video tutorial here:
If you do make your own, rather than buy a Poppy on the 11th of the 11th please remember to make a donation too. Every little helps and goes to good causes.
These little Christmas tree decoration crochet icicles are really quick and easy to make consisting of just two rows of crochet ....yes you read that correctly - just two rows.
I added beads on the end to give a bit of weight and make them extra pretty, the beads will shine when the light catches them especially if they are on a Christmas Tree with lights.
I came up with this idea for little Christmas Tree decorations one day and through I would share it with you all.
They are REALLY simple to make but I think they look quite effective (hope you agree)
They are made from scraps of left over yarn, made in the round, so very little sewing unless you add the little decorations in which case you will have to just sew in the ends of each one.
I have made a video tutorial here:
The trees can be used on a Christmas Tree as little decorations or by leaving out the tree hanger they can be used as table decorations.
Make them bigger or smaller by using different thicknesses of yarn or different hook sizes.
Terms of use: You are welcome to use the pattern to make decorations to sell, please credit Pookie Doodle Crafts as the designer where possible and please do not claim the pattern as your own.
I was asked if I could design a bag that would fit over the handle of a walking frame enabling you to keep your hands free and not have to carry the bag in your hands.
After thinking it over for a time I came up with this design that is easy to do and the whole bag is worked in one piece with no side seams to sew, they are worked in the round. One thing I don't like sewing up seams so this seemed (excuse the pun) a good way around it. I also think it will work well as a bag for over the handle of a pushchair or anything with a straight handle, or even over the arm of a chair.
I have made a video tutorial so you can crochet along and make one for yourself, simply click here to watch:
There is no specific sizing and you can make it as big or as small as you like simply by beginning with more or less chains, you can also add in more pockets to suit your needs. It is all explained in the video. The one I made and shown in the video measured approx. 24" (from end to end) x 11"wide and used approx. 175g of chunky yarn.
The dragonfly stitch is done in a similar way to the Butterfly Stitch which I showed you a few months ago.
It is a very easy technique to learn but very effective and can be used in a lot of different items such as coasters, mats, shawls and blankets.
In this video I show you how to do just the Dragonfly stitch and in the next one I do a crochet a long (CAL) to show you how to make a small mat or granny square with a Dragonfly Stitch on each side.
I've found this method of decreasing so helpful in my amigurumi and other crochet because it gives a very smooth finish and no bumps that you normally get with a decrease stitch.
It is very simple to do and easy to learn. I've made a video tutorial here showing the method:
Hope you enjoy learning this technique. Happy crocheting!
Have you ever wanted to display your crochet or other fabric craft work?
This tutorial will show you how to fix your work into a deep frame so that it does not get squashed but is held in place for all to see:- Creating crochet wall art tutorial: https://youtu.be/-Qinm8Kwhw4
The picture is made using just 4 granny squares held together with flat chain stitch.
I decided to add some beads to the final edging, both to give a bit of weight when wearing it and also to give it a nice decorative finish.
Adding beads is very easy, although to begin with it can be a bit fiddly to get hold of the beads and crochet at the same time, but it is well worth persevering and having a go.
I've made a video tutorial to show you how it is done if you want to have a go :)
Some might wonder what Fusion Crochet is, if you haven't heard of it it is a technique using fabric and crochet and they are worked together to create various items.
You can make blankets and throws, or table mats and coasters, scented bags for your wardrobe - the possibilities are endless.
I made this cushion cover using a remnant of material and 4 ply Drops Cotton 'Safran' yarn but you can use any yarn you wish.
I haven't got a written pattern but have done a video tutorial which takes you through the stages to make the cushion cover, or you can just watch the general technique and then make whatever you want. Click here to watch the video:
Are you like me and sometimes find it hard to find a clean place for your yarn? I often crochet and knit out doors but the ground can be too dirty for my project bag and I find that my yarn will often fall
off my lap and onto the ground, getting dirty. This bag was my solution
to the problem and I hope it helps you too.
The bag simply loops over your arm to hold your yarn as you work - I find most bags have the handle the wrong way for this and they won't sit comfortably on your side, hence this design.
Ideal if you often stand at craft fairs and work too, or like I say if you don't have a clean place for your yarn, maybe on a train, bus or outdoors in a chair.
Although it isn't intended as a work/project bag, it would hold small items such as Amigurumi, socks, parts of projects etc. However if you did want a bigger bag there are details in the pattern where to add more rows to make it larger.
There is a full written FREE pattern here both with photos and without:
I'm buzzzzzzzing with excitement at having made my own little bee!
I searched all over for something that looked like what I wanted but couldn't find anything so decided to have a go.
I find it quite easy to make things, but writing down what I did into an understandable pattern always proves quite tricky but hopefully I've done it - let me know if you find any mistakes though. :)
If you've never tried the loopy crochet stitch that gives a lovely shaggy effect then now is the time to try. Go on, have a go!
I made this quick and simple dust mitt using the loop stitch and it is useful for many projects including toy sheep, hats, scarves etc. the possibilities are endless.
If you don't know how do the loop stitch see my video tutorial here:
Pattern for the dust mitt:
I used double knit and it used around 40g
4mm crochet hook
I use English crochet terms.
Begin by making 52 chain
1st row: double crochet in 2nd chain from hook then one double crochet in each chain to end. (50 sts)
2nd row 2 ch (counts as first dc) one double crochet in next 14 stitches . One loop stitch in each of next 20 stitches. One double crochet in each of next 15 stitches (50 sts)
Repeat rows 1 and 2, 20 times or until the mitt is the correct length for your hand measured from the first chain row. It doesn't have to be exact, same with the width - if you have larger hands simple increase the number of stitches each side.
Once you are happy with the length work the next row as decrease:
2 chain (counts as first stitch); 1 double crochet; **double crochet next two stitches together; one double crochet in next two stitches;** repeat from ** to ** to end.
Next row: Double crochet two stitches together, repeat to end.
Fasten off.
You should now have a piece that looks like this with a centre loopy section and plain each side.
The wrong side will look like this:
Now join the two shortest sides together by folding in half and either crocheting or stitching the seam.
Next flatten it out so the loopy section is central with the plain sections at the back and the seam in the centre.
You are going to turn it inside out now and sew the top together. The decreased end will be the cuff.
Once finished, turn it back with the loopy side out and you are ready to get dusting!
Happy crocheting!
Terms of use:
The pattern is free to use for personal use only. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, distribute physically or digitally or put the pattern on your own blog/website - instead please provide a link back to my blog or Ravelry pattern link. Please do not claim the pattern as your own. Please credit Pookie Doodle Crafts www.pookiedoodlecrafts.co.uk as the designer and provide a link where possible. If you make something similar using my idea please add "inspired by Pookie Doodle Crafts" and if you let me know I will promote yours too - I think we should all work together to share ideas :) The items you make: You may do what you like with the items you make from the pattern but please give me credit for the design where possible. I would love to see your creations please do share them. If you sell them and make a reasonable profit please consider making a little donation to a charity from it - I would really appreciate that and thank you in advance :)
